“Sushi Grade” is a Myth

Raw fish is never zero-risk. But you can stack the odds in your favor. Here’s how I choose fish for sushi.

“Sushi grade” is a comfort word, not a guarantee. In the United States, there’s no legal definition, no certification process, and no governing body that blesses certain fish as safe to eat raw. It’s a label retailers use because it sounds reassuring, and we all want to be reassured.

Whether you’re making sashimi, crudo, carpaccio, ceviche, or tartare, if it calls for raw seafood, it’s never zero risk. That’s why if you’re pregnant, immunocompromised, very young, or older, it’s best not to take that risk. For everyone else, the question isn’t whether sashimi is safe; it’s how to minimize risks so you can enjoy it without spending the meal wondering if you’ll regret it later.

Like most things, sashimi safety isn’t a on/off switch. It’s a spectrum, and where the fish lands on that spectrum depends on decisions made long before it hits your plate.

As a chef, I’ve sourced raw seafood on multiple continents, and I rely on a few simple checks to decide whether to serve it raw.

What Risk Actually Means

Raw seafood comes with a few specific hazards, so let’s start with what can go wrong.

Parasites are the main concern for most finfish. Anisakis worms, in particular, cause stomach pain sharp enough to send you to the ER if you eat them alive. They turn up in wild salmon, squid, and oily fish like mackerel, cod, and sardines. The fix is straightforward: buy fish that’s been flash frozen according to FDA guidelines, or stick with species that rarely harbor them.

Pathogens like Vibrio, Listeria, and Salmonella can be present in seafood. These cause food poisoning that ranges from a miserable few days to life-threatening in vulnerable people. Shellfish, particularly filter-feeding bivalves (oysters, clams, and mussels), are a high risk for Vibrio regardless of how they’ve been handled. Listeria and Salmonella contamination is usually caused by poor handling and storage.

Histamine poisoning happens when fish like tuna or mackerel aren’t chilled fast enough after being caught. Bacteria convert naturally occurring histidine into histamine, which causes flushing, hives, headache, and nausea. Once histamine forms, cooking won’t help. Rapid chilling is the only prevention.

Toxins like ciguatoxin, which accumulate in reef fish (barracuda, grouper, large snappers), causes ciguatera poisoning with severe gastrointestinal and neurological symptoms that can last months. There’s no easy way to check for it, and cooking doesn’t help, so the only way to prevent it is to avoid high-risk species entirely.

Now that you know what you’re up against, here are the four S’s I check for to lower those risks:

1. Source (Find Someone You Trust)

This is the simplest and most effective check: buy from a seller you trust. Trust means they’re knowledgeable about their supply chain, maintain proper hygiene and cold storage, and have high turnover. A good vendor already considers everything on this checklist before marking seafood as sushi grade. They know which fish were frozen for parasite control. They keep raw-ready fish separated from everything else with dedicated tools and space. And they can answer any questions you have, such as where the fish came from and when it arrived.

When I’m evaluating a new fishmonger, I share my concerns and ask: “Would you eat this raw today?” Their answer, and the reasoning behind it, tells me everything I need to know. Separate prep areas and cases for sashimi, transparent sourcing, and people who geek out about their products earn my trust. Red flags include sashimi and seafood for cooking sharing a space, and vague answers to your questions. If you don’t trust the source, stop and walk away.

2. Species (Avoid High-Risk Seafood)

Focus on finfish commonly eaten raw, such as tuna, farmed salmon, yellowtail, and sea bream. While many saltwater fish are served raw in Japan, they each have a different risk profile, so don’t get too adventurous unless you and your source know exactly what you’re doing.

Shellfish carry higher pathogen and parasite risks, so it’s probably best to avoid eating them raw at home unless you’re very confident in your source. You’ll also want to skip warm-water reef fish for raw preparations because of ciguatoxin. If you’re new to this, start with commonly eaten sashimi fish from a trusted supplier.

3. Subzero (Flash Freezing Kills Parasites)

Tuna, such as albacore, yellowfin, bigeye, and bluefin, are considered low risk for parasites. Farmed fish raised on pellet feed also carry a lower risk because they’re not eating wild prey that might harbor parasitic larvae.

All other fish (especially higher-risk species such as squid, wild salmon, and mackerel) should be frozen according to FDA guidelines. Since most home freezers can’t get cold enough, it’s important to buy fish that’s been properly processed. Ask your fishmonger whether the fish you’re buying has been frozen for parasite destruction.

According to the FDA, parasites are destroyed by freezing and holding seafood at -4°F (-20°C) for 7 days, or by freezing to -31°F (-35°C) until solid, then holding for 15 hours. Also, curing with acid (as in ceviche) or salt (as in gravlax) is NOT a reliable method for controlling parasites.

4. Swift (Don’t Break the Chain at Home)

You’ve lowered risk upstream with smart sourcing and species selection. Don’t break the cold chain in the final stretch.

I buy fish last during any shopping trip, pack it with ice, and head straight home. In the kitchen, I sterilize cutting boards and knives with alcohol or heat to prevent cross-contamination. Be sure to keep your prep quick and serve it in small batches so nothing lingers at room temperature for long.

The goal is to keep everything cold until the moment it’s eaten.

What to Make With It

You’ve done the work of finding good fish and bringing it home safely. Here’s where it gets fun.

For something delicate and refined, I love turning fish into carpaccio. My Kanpachio pairs ultra-thin slices of buttery kanpachi (greater amberjack) with fragrant olive oil, umami-packed Pecorino Romano, and a whisper of citusy sansho pepper. If you want something bolder that doesn’t require any knife skills, my Kimchi-Cured Salmon may look a little homely, but the fermented cabbage and seasonings cure the salmon, firming up its texture while infusing it with loads of flavor.

Curing may not do much for safety, but it does work wonders on the texture of frozen fish, taking something that might be a little spongy or watery and giving it a firm yet velvety bite. Hyugadon is a hyper-regional specialty from Oita Prefecture in southern Japan, and the combination of ground toasted sesame seeds and sweet soy sauce makes an ideal marinade for curing tuna (or any other sashimi-ready fish). Serve this over a piping-hot bowl of rice, and you’ll start to see why it’s long been a comforting staple for fishermen in the area.

If you’re looking for something a little more festive, Seafood Chirashi Sushi scatters a rainbow of seafood and vegetables over sushi rice for an edible garden of gems. If you’re entertaining a small group, Temaki Sushi is another great option that lets everyone build their own cone-shaped hand rolls, choosing their favorite fillings. I guess it’s kinda like the Japanese equivalent of a home pizza party.

At the Counter

So next time you’re standing at the fish counter, remember the four S’s of sashimi safety: Source, Species, Subzero, Swift.

The goal isn’t to eliminate risk; it’s to understand it and your tolerance for it better, and use that knowledge to make informed choices.

Whether you’re making sushi, sashimi, or carpaccio, I hope this guide makes preparing raw fish feel a little less scary and helps you enjoy one of the great pleasures of cooking simply and eating well.